The Local

Homestyle Cuban cuisine now in Glenville

By Kathryn Smith

Photos by Carole shepardson

There is a terrific restaurant and bar North of the Cashiers Crossroads, a little way past Lake Glenville, in a Marathon gas station and convenience store on Hwy 107 a couple of miles north of Lake Glenville. The locals had been going there for years when it was JJs for weekend live entertainment. But then came the pandemic, and the restaurant closed. A year or so later, a Miami couple vacationing here fell in love with the plateau and began planning their move from South Florida.

The gas station and convenience store continued to operate through the pandemic, but the owners were ready to sell. So, Art and Jackie Dopazo bought it and immediately stepped in, working side-by-side with the previous owner, Joel Shumaker for a month or so, learning that side of the business. It was completely new to the former trial attorney and his wife, an interior designer. Then another year passed before they met Scott and Jen Hunter through their kids attending Summit Charter School. They were also new to the community, having moved from California. Jen was working as Assistant General Manager at Mountaintop Golf and Lake Club. Scott’s food and beverage experience made him the perfect partner to help the Dopazos finally open the restaurant space.

The Dopazos, both from large extended families in Miami, were raised in a culture of classic Cuban cooking. They learned the art of cooking from their parents and grandparents in homes where large get-togethers over a big meal happened daily. Jackie fondly recalls, “We were raised like that. Cooking in the kitchen with our moms and grandmas.” This personal connection to their food is what they bring to The Local, creating a warm and familiar atmosphere for all who visit.

When asked who’s better in the kitchen, Jackie says, “We’re both foodies, and we love to cook. We’ve always cooked together, but my husband is the grill master. That rig out there is his.” She refers to a custom-built smoker by the patio that Art used in barbeque competitions in Florida. Today, it roasts the veggies they use in their homemade sauces and draws in travelers at the gas station, who are surprised to smell the smoked ribs and turkey nearby.

The menu at The Local is a delightful mix of Cuban food with a unique take on tacos, burgers, sandwiches, and full entrees. However, what truly sets their concept apart is their unwavering commitment to quality. As Art proudly states, “Everything, and I mean everything, is made from scratch. Nothing is frozen. Our French fries take over a day to make because we hand-cut them and then soak them for twenty-four hours. Then, they are twice fried, the last time right before serving.”

Remarkably, they also make their corn tortillas from scratch, including smoked brisket as a filler, with chicken, carnitas, steak and shrimp as other options. Homemade salsa, crema, and pico are the picks for toppings.  Three of Art’s secret recipe barbeque sauces are offered at each table: local barbeque, honey garlic and buffalo. The coleslaw accompanying the brisket as a sandwich, taco, or entrée is crisp and tangy, having been made that morning when the kitchen begins prepping at 4:30 a.m. They must be ready for the rush of local workers stopping at the convenience store for fresh breakfast sandwiches and biscuits.

The sandwich menu with a Cuban twist is different from other area restaurants. The La Frita hamburger mixes Angus beef and chorizo to spice it up. The John adds smoked brisket to the Angus patty. Or, go completely Calle Ocho Miami with The Juan, an Angus burger topped with roast pork, jalapenos and cheddar cheese.

For dinner, the Cuban plate is served with rice and black beans, avocado, fried plantains and grilled onions. It also includes a fantastic choice of meat, including shrimp, steak, steak palomino, roast pork, steak or chicken Milanese, and grilled chicken. Grilled or hand-breaded jumbo shrimp are another option, and they come with various homemade sauces. Or, an 8-ounce bistro filet with fries might be the right choice. But there are also generous barbeque plates of pulled pork, ribs, chopped brisket and smoked turkey.

There’s plenty on the dessert menu as well, including, not surprisingly, key lime pie. But don’t overlook peanut butter pie, a cookie skillet, or the indulgent fried Oreos. That is, of course, if you still have room.

The Dopanzos tell us that they have been truly blessed by the workers, who have become like family. Art and Jackie are fluent in Spanish and speak more here than in Florida. They have a loyal staff, and they invest a great deal of time in teaching their recipes and cooking techniques. They credit the quality of the food they serve to low turnover. True, made-from-scratch food is complicated and involves a lot of ingredients. Today, Art boasts that his kitchen staff makes his sauces without assistance, and they are all perfect. He even trusts them at the smoker.

Back to manager Scott Hunter for a moment. He came with extensive food and beverage experience and guided the new owners as they took their homespun kitchen expertise commercial. One of the big surprises about the Cuban joint at the Marathon gas station is the full bar that boasts top-shelf liquor, a menu of specialty drinks, fine wine and beer. And lest we forget, they are the only restaurant in the neighborhood offering that most classic Cuban offering, authentic café con leche.