Little Italy on Scaly Mountain

The sign atop the modest, white-painted building with forest green accents tucked in front of a grove of tall pines on Old Mud Creek Road is simple, declaring itself in just two words-—Magliocca’s Ristorante.

The Italian restaurant that elevated dining opportunities in Scaly Mountain is less than a year old, but the man behind it is well-known by year-round residents, second-home owners and annual visitors to the plateau and has built quite the following over his three decades in Highlands.

Danny Magliocca was raised in Youngstown, Ohio, the second youngest of six children. Though his mother was not Italian, she had plenty of teachers from her husband’s family of 13 siblings.

“Everybody ate Italian, and everybody cooked Italian, she had no choice but to learn,” Danny recalls fondly. “But she really enjoyed it and became very good at it. The eight of us had home-cooked dinner at the table every night.”

Danny helped her in the kitchen; his first professional experience was working for his sister and brother-in-law at their restaurant. “He was a culinary school graduate, and I learned a lot just watching him. I got the bug, and it never left me,” recalls Danny. When another chef at that restaurant relocated to Highlands, he called and invited Danny to join him. “I packed up my car, drove to Highlands and started work,” says Danny. Except for seasonal stints working in Florida, he has never left.

Several years ago, he opened a very casual café in Scaly Mountain—on top of his regular job—and came to know residents of nearby Sky Valley, Georgia, who often hired him to cater private parties. When four of those clients—Allison and John Kelly and Sherry and Roy Gailey—got wind that Scaly Mountain restaurant Bella’s was for sale, they offered to back Danny if he would purchase it. He took possession in March 2024 and began deep cleaning and renovations.

Allison and Sherry oversaw the interior design. The clean white walls and green trim are a seamless extension of the exterior. Green and white drapes frame the tall windows that flood light into the snug dining room. Framed vintage Italian advertising posters deliver vibrant pops of color and sharp graphics. Linen-draped tables are spaced to comfortably accommodate 22 seats (Eight more will be available on the cozy front porch when weather permits.) Guests are welcome to peek into the semi-open kitchen to say hello.

Creating the menu was a one-man job. “I sat down with myself and got to work,” says Danny with a laugh. “I didn’t want to open with a big menu.  You set up a menu around the kitchen you have. We have a pretty small kitchen.”

Though he intends to expand it in the future, for now, it is just big enough for him and his two sous chefs: Jackson Knesset, who prepares starters and entrees, and Kathleen ‘Kat’ Casey, who prepares salads, bread and pastry.

Every dinner at Magliocca’s begins with a complimentary warm, small loaf of fresh-baked bread made that morning and a ramekin of herbed, softened butter, a rarity in dining today.

Nearly a year in, there are typically five starters, but only one has been on the menu since opening and for good reason. The eggplant cake begins with a thick tomato sauce—almost puree—and chopped roasted eggplant. Crumbled goat cheese, mozzarella and grana parmigiana reggiano are folded into that. The mix is molded into six-inch rounds, egg-washed and breaded, sauteed in olive oil to crisp the exterior, drizzled with a syrupy balsamic and laid atop a tangle of arugula.

Arancini is an excellent starter to share; rendered pancetta and shredded parmigiana are stirred into lemon risotto, formed into balls, flash-fried and set on a puddle of aromatic, bright green pesto.

Polpette translates to meatball, and at Magliocca’s, the large veal/beef/pork meatball perches on a mound of polenta, ladled with chunky marina.

A trio of salads is offered – Caesar, caprese, and arugula green salad with artichokes, olives and pepperoncini – each deftly dressed.

Italy offers countless types of pasta and innumerable ways to prepare it, but there is a lot to be said for the basics done right. At Magliocca’s, that is the tube-shaped, perfectly al dente rigatoni coated with hearty Bolognese, the same carnivorous veal/beef/pork trifecta as the meatballs.

Diners can expect a selection of about a half-dozen entrees—the filet mignon with mashed potatoes, broccoli rabe, and a nest of caramelized onions is a staple—and there will be a veal dish, a chicken dish and at least one seafood dish.

The Pescatore has rightfully won a leading role on the menu and has a stellar execution that is not to be missed. Clams and mussels in the shell, plump shrimp and bite-sized bay scallops are on a bed of silky linguine in a light tomato and lobster stock broth, crowned with a lobster tail.

Kat’s parfaits and tiramisu are so light and thoughtfully portioned that there is always room for a bite—or more—of dessert.

Danny says his partners strongly urged him to use his name as they planned their opening. “I’m a pretty modest person, so I was hesitant. But it’s pretty catchy and says what it is, so I’m glad I said yes. Seeing it up there with the lights on at night makes me really proud.”

Magliocca’s Ristorante

20 Old Mud Creek Road

Scaly Mountain, NC 28775

(828) 526-0803

www.maglioccas.com

Open Tues. – Sat. 5 pm until close, reservations highly recommended.